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Chasing a Wild Beast in the Sahara… Well, Almost
This Saturday, after putting the last little tweaks on my classic Volkswagen van, I shut the garage door and—right across the street—there it was: a 1930s Peugeot. But not just any Peugeot. This one had been upgraded with LED lights.
I was surprised. I’d never even considered that option for my own vehicles. I’ve done plenty of night driving on my classic BMW R-series through France—often tucked in behind a 30-ton truck—trying to keep my bearings like I was tracking broken twigs and footprints across the Sahara in search of a wild beast.
With my old 500, the visibility was just as bad in the daytime when using the indicators. But LED? Maybe this was the answer.
A bit of research told me LEDs have been around since 2006, and are now everywhere. I’ll save the actual Sahara tracking story for another time, but right then and there I thought:
F*** it, I’m buying a set.
I figured LEDs would fix all my problems—better visibility for others to see me, plus some extra light so I could actually read my dashboard without squinting.
That’s when reality hit.
First, I needed all 17 bulbs. Sounds easy, right? Wrong. Every website used a different naming system and code for the bulbs. Sure, the standard H4 and P21W were easy enough, but for classics, the modern ECE codes don’t always apply.
After hours of hunting, I finally got a complete list together… only to discover that almost none of the LEDs came in the original warm color I wanted.
Fine. I’ll do it myself.
If no one could sell me the perfect LED kit for a classic, I’d make my own.
I posted my idea in a Facebook group: “Hey, I’m putting together a proper LED set for classic cars—anyone interested?”
I got plenty of likes, a decent number of responses… and an avalanche of warnings about error messages, flickering, and—of course—the dreaded “Not road legal” disclaimers.
Now I had more questions than when I started:
- Can I actually put together a complete set with bulbs in the original color?
- Why does every package say “Not for use on public roads”?
- And why do LEDs flicker or fail in the first place?
The answers, it seems, might be as elusive as that wild beast in the Sahara.
The Harsh Truth About LED Retrofits
Here’s the reality: 99.9% of all LED headlight retrofits on public roads in Europe are technically illegal.
Why? Because every car on the road must have an ECE-certified headlamp and bulb combination. This means the headlamp and the bulb are tested together as one unit for things like beam pattern and electromagnetic emissions. If you swap your halogen bulb for an LED without an official ECE test for that exact pairing—you’re already outside the law.
ECE vs. EC (CE) Certification
Don’t confuse the two. ECE certification relates to vehicle component approval and safety standards (used in Europe and many other regions). It’s what makes a headlamp and bulb combination road legal.
EC certification—often marked as CE—is also important, though for different reasons. It’s about compliance with European Community regulations, covering general safety, electromagnetic emissions, and environmental rules.
Here’s why CE matters for LED bulbs:
- Electromagnetic emissions: CE testing checks whether the bulb emits radio interference. This often means adding extra electronic components to comply. Without this, LEDs are more prone to flicker, error messages, or radio noise.
- RoHS Directive: CE testing also ensures the product is free from certain hazardous materials. This means you won’t be exposed to dangerous substances like lead or mercury when handling or installing your lights.
Surprisingly, many big online retailers like Amazon and bol.com sell LED bulbs without CE certification. This usually means corners were cut—either to avoid the cost of testing or because the product wouldn’t pass in the first place.
Why Not Certify All Old Headlights for LED?
Sounds simple, right? Just test every classic headlight with LEDs and make them legal. Unfortunately, it’s not. Each ECE test is extremely expensive, and in Europe there are hundreds of different headlight models. The business case just doesn’t work—there’s no realistic way to test them all and make a profit.
The American Shortcut
In the USA, the story was much simpler. By law, they standardized on just two sizes: 5-inch and 7-inch round headlights. That means manufacturers only had to design, build, and test two models. Legal LED options for these sizes exist—and they’re approved for public roads. Unfortunately, the rest of the world doesn’t get that shortcut.
What About “Legal” LEDs from Big Brands?
Some major brands like Philips advertise certain LED bulbs as “road legal.” What they mean is: the LED is legal only when paired with the specific headlights they tested and certified. If you check their official compatibility lists, you’ll see most approved headlamps are from cars built in 2020 or later. So, for older cars, the chance of finding your headlight model on that list is slim.
MOT and Inspection Differences
In most of Europe, MOT (vehicle inspection) checks are fairly relaxed—they just look at your beam pattern and whether your lights work, not the bulb type. In the Netherlands, for example, the APK doesn’t care if you’ve swapped to LED as long as your beam is correct.
But in Germany and Austria, inspectors are much stricter. There’s a good chance they won’t pass your car if you have non-ECE LED retrofits, no matter how perfect your beam looks.
Insurance
At the moment, there are no widely known cases in the Netherlands where insurance claims have been denied solely because of a properly installed LED retrofit. That said, if you cause an accident and it can be argued that your lights blinded another driver, things could get complicated very quickly.
Bottom Line
If your LED retrofit isn’t officially ECE-approved for your exact headlamp housing, it’s not legal for public road use—no matter how good it looks or performs. That’s why almost every LED retrofit on the road today falls into the “technically illegal” category.
A Quick Stroll Through Car Headlight History
Car lighting has gone through a few big leaps over the decades. First came sealed beam and single incandescent bulbs, then halogen, and later the fancy stuff—xenon and now LED.
The Early Days – Before the Mid-50s
Before 1955, headlights were usually single incandescent bulbs or sealed beams running on 6 volts. The lenses did most of the work to guide the light, and generators had such low output that your headlights were more of a “glow” than a “beam.”
6V systems were also more vulnerable: even small voltage drops from corrosion, bad grounds, or cold weather could turn a dim light into a candle flicker. On the upside, they were simple and cheap to fix. On the downside… well, seeing where you were going on a rainy night was sometimes a guesswork exercise.
Post-War Europe – The R2 Bulb Era
After WWII, Europe saw the rise of the R2 dual-filament bulb (p45t), sometimes called the “Bilux.” These bulbs had internal shielding to help control the beam. They were still incandescent, which meant they used more power for light compared to halogen—so much of that energy turned into heat instead of brightness.
Fitting halogens into these old systems wasn’t straightforward. Car generators of the time were far from powerful, and halogens, while brighter and more efficient in light output, also demanded more from the electrical system. On a 6V car, this could be a real struggle.
The Switch to 12V – ’60s and Onwards
By the 1960s, manufacturers started moving to 12V systems. The higher voltage meant thinner wiring, better starter motor performance, and most importantly—brighter, more reliable lighting. Voltage drop became less of a killer, and headlights could finally be taken seriously as night-driving tools rather than “polite suggestions” to other drivers.
The Halogen Revolution – ’80s to 2000s
By the 1980s, H4 halogen bulbs (p43t) became the standard in Europe. Brighter, whiter light, more focused beams, and better visibility in all weather. But remember—this wasn’t just “plug and play” for older cars. Many classics needed upgraded wiring and alternators to cope with the higher load.
Japan’s Own Timeline
Japanese cars followed a slightly different path—many stuck with older bulb types until the ’70s and then gradually caught up with halogens after that. In some rural markets, older incandescent setups lingered even longer.
The American Exception
The USA is a special case. For decades, the government mandated just two headlight sizes—7-inch round and 5-inch round—both sealed beams. This rule stuck until the ’80s, long after Europe had moved on. The upside? A completely standardized market. The downside? Little room for innovation until the rules changed.
A Quick Detour to Russia
In the Soviet Union, headlights were… let’s say “functional.” Many cars used simple, rugged incandescent setups that were easy to replace and could survive rough roads and freezing winters. Brightness was never their strong point—but they were tough, cheap, and easy to fix with a hammer and some tape.
Modern Times – Xenon, LED & Projector Lights
Fast forward to today and we’ve got xenon (HID) and LED systems, often paired with projector lenses for precision. Brighter, sharper, and far more energy-efficient than anything from the old days. We’ve come a long way from the dim yellow glow of the ’50s.
Legal Ways to Brighten Up Your Classic
With the exception of Germany and Austria—where the MOT requires original parts—the rest of Europe is surprisingly flexible when it comes to headlight upgrades. Depending on your car’s age, wiring, and headlamp type, you might have a few options for improving your beam without breaking the law.
Here are four legal alternatives (note: not all will fit every vehicle). Most focus on improving the front beam only.
1. Upgrade to 12 Volts
If your car is still running on 6V, moving to a 12V system can instantly make all your bulbs brighter. This usually means swapping in a new generator (or alternator) and battery. It’s a bigger job, but it opens the door to modern bulbs and accessories without overloading your system.
2. Swap to Halogen Bulbs
You can replace your headlamp units with ones that have a halogen fitting (H4, for example). In some cases, there’s even a direct halogen counterpart for your old incandescent bulb—same fitting, more light. Just be sure your wiring and power supply can handle the extra load.
3. Direct Battery Wiring
Many classic 6V and even 12V cars lose a lot of voltage through old switches and wiring. By the time it reaches your bulb, you might only have 9–10 volts left—no wonder it’s dim! Running a dedicated cable from your battery to your bulbs, via a proper relay, can dramatically improve brightness. People swear by this one.
4. High-Performance Halogen Bulbs
Modern halogen bulbs are available with improved light output. They’re easy to fit—but beware of the blue tint some of them have. Blue light can seem “modern,” and it sees further in clear conditions, but it’s worse than warm white or yellow in fog. In the end, it’s a matter of personal taste.
Bottom line: Unless you’re in Germany or Austria, you probably have options. Just pick the one that matches your car’s electrics, your budget, and your taste in beam color.
A Little History of Car Electrics (and Why It Matters for Lights)
Old cars have charm, style… and electrical quirks. Back in the day, wiring and components were designed for much simpler systems—long before modern electronics, let alone LEDs, were a thing.
Relays, Resistors, and “Click!”
In older setups, resistors and relays worked together to control your lights and indicators. Each click of the relay could cause a tiny voltage spike. It’s usually harmless, but it can still matter—especially with modern, sensitive LEDs. Also, unless your car had a warning light, you wouldn’t know if a bulb was out unless you checked it yourself from time to time.
Electromagnetic Mischief
Old wiring and components can act like antennas, picking up and radiating EMI (electromagnetic interference). Back then, nobody cared much—your lights either worked or they didn’t. Today’s tech is more sensitive, and LEDs in particular don’t always get along with electrical “noise.”
When CAN Bus Arrived
Modern cars often use a system called CAN Bus, which constantly checks if your lamps are working. If a bulb goes out, you’ll get a dashboard warning. Sounds smart, right? The catch is, LED bulbs often draw less power than the system expects, so the car thinks the bulb is dead even when it’s fine. That’s why “CAN Bus–ready” LEDs exist—they trick the system into thinking all is well.
Why LEDs Can Be Tricky in Old Cars
Classic cars without CAN Bus still have plenty of electrical noise. Mechanical voltage regulators, old wiring, and worn connectors can all cause spikes and dips in voltage. LEDs are more vulnerable to these peaks than traditional bulbs, so sometimes they need extra protection or filtering to survive.
Light Output: Halogen vs. LED
Halogen bulbs in classics already produce far less light than modern LEDs—sometimes several times less. On top of that, the wiring in many old cars delivers only 10–11 volts to the bulb instead of the full 12 volts, so you get even less brightness. And if you’ve ever noticed your engine revs dropping slightly when you turn the lights on, you’ve met the other issue: the extra load from the dynamo or generator can actually drag the engine down.
Bottom line: old-school electrics are wonderfully simple, but they weren’t built with LEDs in mind. If you want to run them, you may need to help your car’s wiring and electronics keep up with modern tech.
Upcomming!
1. Development of a general fit headlamp including LED bulb
2. Projector bulbs in classics
3. Filament LED
More Visibility, Less Guesswork
Good lighting isn’t just about looking stylish—it’s about seeing, being seen, and keeping your classic safe on the road. That’s why we put our LED kits through several checks before they ever reach you. Our testing isn’t a magic guarantee of success (classics can be quirky!), but it does mean we’ve done our homework so you can think along with us.
Our Three Types of Testing
- CE Compliance Checks: We regularly verify that our products meet CE regulations, including testing for electromagnetic noise along the cables and ensuring they’re free from heavy, hazardous materials.
- On-Vehicle Trials: Sometimes we test kits directly on a customer’s classic (often with a nice discount as a thank-you!) to see if everything works as intended in the real world.
- Beam Pattern Tests: We mount the LEDs in the headlamps of supported vehicles and check whether the low beam matches the ECE-certified pattern.
The All-in-One LED Kit
Since lighting isn’t just about the road ahead, our complete kit includes everything—from your front beams, city lights, indicators, and rear lights, to the important interior bulbs like dash illumination and cabin lighting. It’s a convenient, one-stop upgrade that keeps things bright and consistent everywhere.
A Note on Legality
Regulations can vary, and in the end, it’s up to you to decide what’s right for your car and your local rules. We provide the best, most compliant products we can—but you make the call.
Why Classic Cars Behave Differently
On older vehicles, things like voltage drops, dynamo output, and even engine revs can change how your lights behave. Ever noticed your idle dip when you switch the lights on? That’s your dynamo working harder. Our kits are designed to minimize those quirks while still giving you a big step up in visibility.
A car light has a dozen of different namings, difference per brand and continent. To make it easy on the top of this page a searcher to compare them. Know that when reading the table Classic to Led uses the following rules of thum as mentioned in part 7:
- Headlights are available as a choise in warm white and French yellow
- When a light is used for behind a coloured glass e.g. indicators, and rear and brake lights then the color of the lens is followed with orange or red. Except for classic motorcycles where we advice warm white in the rear bulb because it also illuminates the licence plate.